HAUTE COUTURE HISTORY OF VALENTINO

For his inaugural Haute Couture collection, “Vertigineaux,” with Maison Valentino, Alessandro Michele drew inspiration from Umberto Eco’s 2009 book, “The Infinity of Lists.” The book served as a guiding light, helping Michele navigate the immense task of creating 48 one-of-a-kind couture ensembles. Beyond providing structure to his creative process, Eco’s work also resonated with Michele’s experience of the often overwhelming technical demands of Haute Couture, which he described as feeling impossible at times.

In line with Eco’s exploration of lists, each of Michele’s couture designs was accompanied by a list detailing the various sources of inspiration, historical cues, and technical elements that came together to create the final piece. This approach not only paid homage to Eco’s work but also offered a glimpse into the intricate and layered creative process behind each stunning ensemble.

Michele’s “Vertigineaux” collection for Valentino thus showcased a masterful blend of literary inspiration, historical references, and technical prowess, resulting in a stunning display of Haute Couture that captured the imagination and admiration of the fashion world.

Clothes are never-ending lists of technical know-how. The vertigo of the list [about the dresses] is not finite,” Alessandro Michele said.

Alessandro Michele’s couture collection was undoubtedly theatrical and costume-inspired, which drew some criticism from those expecting a more traditional Haute Couture presentation. However, one can argue that Michele’s approach demonstrated a deep understanding of the fantasy and escapism associated with Haute Couture. By embracing the artistry and extravagance of costume design, Michele crafted a collection that pushed the boundaries of traditional couture while still maintaining its essence of luxury and exceptional craftsmanship.

The designer’s unique vision was grounded in Umberto Eco’s “The Infinity of Lists,” which provided structure and depth to the fantastical elements of his designs. Each ensemble was accompanied by a list that detailed its various sources of inspiration, historical references, and technical elements, showcasing the intricate thought process behind each piece.

“In my opinion, dresses need a mise en scene; they don’t have a life of their own sitting in a closet. They need to come alive, so the idea of a theater is as important as the clothes; one is the ancestor of the other,” Michele continued.

Alessandro Michele’s presentation of his Haute Couture collection was not only a showcase of his designs but also an immersive experience for the audience. As each model showcased their look, a digital screen displayed a breakdown of the elements and inspirations behind each ensemble. This unique approach offered a fascinating insight into Michele’s creative process and the depth of thought behind each design.

Adding to the visual spectacle, a red LED light ticker tape flashed words relevant to each look, accompanied by a white light displaying the look number. The combination of the digital display and lighting effects created a mesmerizing atmosphere that engaged the audience and mirrored the dizzying, intricate nature of Haute Couture itself.

As the show reached its crescendo, the pulsating white lights intensified, reflecting the energy and passion poured into each creation. The overall effect was an unforgettable, sensory experience that not only showcased Michele’s talent as a designer but also his ability to push the boundaries of traditional fashion presentations.

The Valentino Spring Couture 2025 show was a star-studded event, with several notable celebrities and personalities in attendance. Among the distinguished guests were Elton John and his husband David Furnish, Colman Domingo, Nick Cave and his wife Susie, Carla Bruni, and Bethann Hardison.

“His shows are so theatrical and have such a great story,” said Domingo. Every single look, you felt the fantasy, you felt the story, you felt references from around the world,” he said of the fashion show.

The presence of such high-profile attendees speaks to the prestige of the Valentino brand and the anticipation surrounding Alessandro Michele’s debut couture collection. As the front row filled with famous faces, it became clear that Michele’s innovative designs and immersive presentation were not to be missed.

Other celebrities spotted at the show included Charlotte Lawrence, Devon Lee, Lim Yoona, and Thai pop star Jeff Satur, demonstrating the global appeal of Valentino and the widespread excitement for Michele’s groundbreaking vision. With such a diverse and illustrious group of guests, the Valentino Spring Couture 2025 show was undoubtedly a memorable and significant event in the world of fashion.

The theatrical nature of Alessandro Michele’s collection was further accentuated by the diverse range of historical influences incorporated into the designs. Michele’s vision transported the audience through time, showcasing an eclectic mix of styles inspired by various eras and cultural movements.

To emphasize the historical references, a digital screen displayed words from an array of categories, including technical aspects of Haute Couture, historical figures and periods, art movements, Italian and French culture, Hollywood, and more. This visual representation of the diverse influences behind each look provided a glimpse into Michele’s creative thought process and the rich historical tapestry from which he drew inspiration.

Some of the specific words featured on the screen were as varied as “hippy,” “Baudelaire,” “17th Century,” “Uffizzi Gallery,” “Barry Lyndon,” “Summer of Love,” “occult,” “narcotic,” “courtesan,” and “eccentricity.” This wide-ranging list of terms highlights the depth and complexity of Michele’s vision, resulting in a collection that was both bold and thought-provoking.

The centerpiece of Alessandro Michele’s collection was his modern interpretation of the pannier and hoop petticoat style skirts, which he skillfully incorporated into his designs. By breathing new life into these historical silhouettes, Michele showcased his ability to seamlessly blend the past with the present, creating a unique and contemporary aesthetic.

Furthermore, Michele paid homage to the rich history of Valentino by drawing insupiration from the house’s archives. This thoughtful nod to the brand’s legacy served to highlight Michele’s respect for the fashion house’s heritage while also infusing his own distinct vision into the designs.

Through his debut couture collection, Michele demonstrated his ability to balance tradition and innovation, crafting a visually striking and intellectually stimulating showcase that captivated both industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts alike.

“The seamstresses are like fairy tale elves who sculpt the piece for weeks, bringing it to life as one day it stands up. It’s a joyful shared effort. For me, Haute Couture is like a gym where you learn and train, discovering fabrics and techniques for the first time. It’s ancient work, he said, adding, “In RTW, there is an immediacy that doesn’t exist here; Couture requires patience.” “Time provides grace and beauty in older women.”

In creating his first couture collection for Valentino, Alessandro Michele drew upon his personal memories from childhood, as well as the inspirations of Valentino Garavani, the founder of the fashion house. This included paying homage to Garavani’s most iconic contribution to fashion: the timeless red dress.

To provide insight into his creative process, Michele left detailed, 100-page documents on each seat at the runway show. These extensive notes, held together by a metal paper fastener, contained stream-of-consciousness lists that revealed the myriad inspirations behind each of the 48 unique ensembles. For example, the description for look 37 included the intriguing sequence of “petticoat, tundra, eschatology,” demonstrating the depth of thought and imagination behind Michele’s designs.

By incorporating his own experiences and the legacy of Valentino Garavani, Alessandro Michele’s debut couture collection for the fashion house showcased his ability to honor the past while infusing his own intellectual and artistic vision into the world of high fashion.”Looking at Valentino in the 1980s makes me think he was inspired by a Goya painting of a cardinal or his passion for antique paintings. He liked aristocracy and the Jet Set,” he said.”I will never be him, but it’s nice to look at his work. Valentino made Paris and Rome make love,” he continued.